a10 electrics problem

[Chrisf1]

Hi again everyone I have an electrical problem with my A10 the dynamo appears to be throwing out a charge (I am using a totally dead 6v battery) sometimes the ampmeter (repro) shows full charging while running, as it should given that the battery is just there to complete the circuit and when this is the case every thing works as it should lights, horn etc and other times the ampmeter stays on zero and does not move regardless of revs and nothing works if I hook a charger on to the battery again all the lights etc work without engine running i cannot find a bad or loose connection anywhere and i need to know where to look i am suspect of the voltage control regulator (repro) which is new out of the box and i have not played with it at all  i  am now led to believe these have to be set up to suit the bike could this be my problem and if so how do i go about it many thanks Chris

[manosound]

Chris,

I'm not sure I can explain why you ever indicate charging, but all the other symptoms are the same I have had three times when the battery is shot and will not take a charge. My batteries died due to too much current allowed through by the regulator. Each of these battery failures happened after about 30 miles of running. I have since replaced the regulator with a Manortech DVR2 and have run well over 100 miles with no problem. Perhaps your old regulator is the reason your battery is shot and you have yet to give the new regulator a chance with a good battery. Regardless of the fact that the regulator is brand new, assuming it is of the electromagnetic type, I think it would be a good idea to test its performance as described in the Haynes manual or elsewhere in this forum. Regarding the first indication of charging, I might guess that the dead battery, after setting awile, accepts a bit of charge before the chemistry gives up.

I bow to my fellow contributors (Mike?, etc.) to correct me if I'm wrong and to offer additional thoughts.


Richard

[manormike]

Hi Richard & Chris & all

Spotted Chris' call for help on another forum. Here is my reply:

"First off you will need to get a decent battery. A `dead' battery
will probably try to draw a high current from the dynamo at proper
regulated voltage (about 7V). Your problem may then go away. If you
don't renew it you risk damaging the dynamo with the high current.
But why did you fit the new regulator? Was the old one definitely
faulty or could the dynamo be giving an erratic output (due to dirty
brushes, weak brush springs, etc)?
Setting up a relay type regulator is easy enough with the correct
meter, but fiddly and a bit time consuming. Details depend on the
exact type but the procedure will be much the same. Note that many
reproduction copied units are of poor quality and will not stay
in adjustment long anyway.
For most riders fitting a solid state regulator is the clear way to
go. A bit more expensive, but fit and forget, but only if the other
components in the charging system are working properly.
A good one is the DVR2 from MTML www.manortec.co.uk/dvr.htm (I should
know because I designed it). But `you pays your money and takes your
choice'.
Good luck."

I agree with all you say Richard. Proper charging needs all 3 main components to be working. 2 out of 3 no good, and can easily lead to 1 out of 3, down to 0 of 3 working!

Mike of the Manor

[fido]

In my experience a dead battery normally draws less current than a good one 

[manormike]

Depends on the cause of death.
Yes, if heavily sulphated (e.g. from sitting around discharged for a long time) the battery will be high resistance and so draw low current. Same if distributor bars go high resistance.
But for a worn out in use battery you can charge it forever and it will not get up to full voltage, so high current drawn. Or if a cell shorted internally. Sounds like Chris has the latter variant.
A high charging current from a regulator set too high makes for a short battery life, and extra topping up. Especially damaging to gel type batteries.
A Happy Monday
Mike

[manosound]

Mike,

Thanks for providing authoritative knowledge. Fortunately for us, you like A10's.

Richard 

[frankenstein]

hi...do not buy an old style mechanical regulator...the Manortech DVR2  is now a must...it transformed my bike...i also bought a varta battery as well....these are made by yuasa and are top quality..heres a link http://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/shop/productprofile.asp?Model=650%206V&ProductGroupID=2582&Brand=BSA&DepartmentName=Motorcycle%20batteries&DepartmentID=155     hope this helps

[Chrisf1]

Thanks for all the help everyone I have spoken to Mike on the the phone he has answered all my queries and I will be converting my regulator to electronic and will be taking on his other suggestions a very helpful man. Thanks Mike

[A10Boy]

Guys is a 7ah battery enough, I thought A10 batteries were something like 13ah ?
Does the solid state regulator make any difference to the "capablities" of the battery / electrical system ?

[manormike]

7Ah may be a little low, I think you're right in saying the originals were 13Ah or so. 10-14Ah would be good.

The key advantage a good electronic regulator will bring is accurate constant voltage charging. When fully charged the current will drop to about a 1/2 Amp trickle. This will avoid 'gassing' which leads to frequent top ups, and shorter battery life.

A longer term advantage is that the solid state regulator will not go out of adjustment so more time to ride, less in maintenance.

Mike