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Author Topic: left hand conrod  (Read 726 times)
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Rich
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« on: 25.11. 2011 22:01 »

can anyone identify this part number 67 1160 R4Z?
this is quite urgent for me to know as I may have purchased the wrong type
Thanks
Rich
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Brian
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« Reply #1 on: 25.11. 2011 23:09 »

Rich that is a large journal A10 rod.

The only thing that is a little confusing is the 4 in the R4Z. I have two spare sets of rods and one set has R1Z and the other R2Z, both sets are identical. The numbers on the rods are the same for both sides, if it has the oil hole then its a left one.
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Rich
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« Reply #2 on: 26.11. 2011 10:27 »

Thanks for that Brian, I have just purchased two left hand rods one new, one second hand, from ebay, I took the chance they were large journal but only had the small journal spares book.
I take it, it will be ok to use two left hand rods (both with oil hole) in an engine?
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Brian
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« Reply #3 on: 26.11. 2011 10:38 »

That I'm not sure about. There has been discussion on the forum before about using two left hand rods. Some seem to think it is ok but personally I wouldnt, I would plug the hole in the right side.
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LJ.
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« Reply #4 on: 26.11. 2011 10:38 »

Quote
I take it, it will be ok to use two left hand rods (both with oil hole) in an engine?

Not really a good idea Rich as this will then allow less oil pressure to the left side, this is the side that usually goes bang when oil starvation occurs. There is more information on this in the forum archives.
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Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
**********************
1940 BSA M20 500cc Girder/Rigid- In Bits!
1947 BSA M21 600cc Girder/Rigid-Green
1949 BSA A7   500cc Girder/Plunger Star Twin-Black
1953 BSA B33  500cc Teles/Plunger-Maroon
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Blue
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Red
Goldy
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« Reply #5 on: 26.11. 2011 12:43 »

Rich have a read through this http://www.audioworld.net/BSA/forum/index.php/topic,2612.0.html
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56 A10 Golden Flash - Restore, ride, relive.                                           
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Rich
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« Reply #6 on: 26.11. 2011 13:29 »

many thanks, I have read the post and providing they are both ok, I will block the hole and get the rods the same weight prior to rebuild
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trevinoz
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« Reply #7 on: 26.11. 2011 20:48 »

Didn't the A65 have both rods drilled some time during production?
If so, having both rods drilled on an A7/10 would not matter as they are virtually the same design as the A65.

  Trev.
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MG
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« Reply #8 on: 26.11. 2011 22:44 »

Dunno if this was at the same time, Trev, but the last A65 models used wider gears in the oil pump to improve lubrication.
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1955 A7 Shooting Star
1956 A10 Golden Flash
1961 Matchless G12 CSR

"Upon seeing the shadow of a pigeon, one must resist the urge to look up." (Confucius)

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jjbsa
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« Reply #9 on: 30.11. 2011 15:25 »

In the mid 60s I was buying a pair of large journal rods from Eddie Dow's.  They only had the ones with the oil hole in stock and they told me to block the hole in the rod that was to go on the timing side.  I did that.  I have heard of people running pairs of undrilled rods OK. 
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kiwipom
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« Reply #10 on: 30.11. 2011 22:17 »

hi guys, i have read all the posts on this subject. I ordered a set of billet rods from SRM and when i received them i noticed that the hole was not there, i contacted srm and sent the relevent info from my manual and asked for thier opinion. They informed me that the hole was origonaly there to promote oil flow through the sludge trap and was now unnessarsary so i fitted them as per instructions. As a matter of interest where does this sludge come from? is it from unfiltered air or oil? if so once filters are in place no sludge,just my thinking correct me if i am wrong, cheers, Bob


* A10 conrod info.jpg (144.55 KB, 497x929 - viewed 42 times.)

* A10 conrods.JPG (151.35 KB, 1024x736 - viewed 51 times.)

* con rod instructions.JPG (137.71 KB, 540x768 - viewed 60 times.)
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A10.G.Flash(cafe racer)Honda 250 vtr. Yamaha Virago XV920.

War! what is it good for?Absolutely nothing, Edwin Star.
MG
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« Reply #11 on: 01.12. 2011 00:47 »

Interesting, I fitted a set of SRM rods in September last year (blimey, where has that year gone???). Back then the lh rod HAD been drilled, although I had to prise a lot of polishing compound and muck out of the hole first...
Here's the complete story: http://www.audioworld.net/BSA/forum/index.php/topic,3195.0.html

The sludge comes from unfiltered oil, the idea was to remove it from the oil and deposit it in the sludge trap by centrifugal force.
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1955 A7 Shooting Star
1956 A10 Golden Flash
1961 Matchless G12 CSR

"Upon seeing the shadow of a pigeon, one must resist the urge to look up." (Confucius)

Austria
Brian
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« Reply #12 on: 01.12. 2011 01:21 »

Only my opinion but if it was me I would be drilling the left rod.

I dont know exactly why BSA did it in the first place but it must have been in response to some problem and they all had the oil hole from then on.
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KiwiGF
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« Reply #13 on: 01.12. 2011 08:12 »

I bought billet rods from thunder engineering uk a short while ago and they look identical to SRM rods (they probably ARE SRM rods) and one rod has an oil hole......
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Last had an A10 in 1976, in 2011 it was time for my second one.

1956 Golden Flash project Frame EA7-168x Engine CA10 9139, lucky me (they left together), dispatched from BSA to Liverpool, 5th Dec 1955.

Suzuki Intruder VS1400 for those days when the BSA ain't going.....
jjbsa
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« Reply #14 on: 01.12. 2011 13:25 »

Hi Kiwipom,
You photo of the 3 rods is interesting.  The rod on the right, which I take to be the BSA one, has to my way of thinking, an unusual end cap, in that there is lots of clearance around the nut and a rather sharp looking junction between the face the nut seats on and the face parallel to the axis of the bolt.  That junction looks like a stress raiser to me.  All the BSA rods I've ever seen before have had a quite narrow circular section milled recess for the nut, with BSA trying to keep as much metal as possible in that area.  For that reason I have to use a slimmed down socket to deal with those nuts.

While we're talking about con rods, has anyone any experience of the steel Carrillo ones?  Do you need to do a rebalance if you fit them?

JJBSA
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kiwipom
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« Reply #15 on: 02.12. 2011 04:12 »

hi guys/MG, i too have had trouble with conrods. The ones that i was going to use had like yours been cut out with a hacksaw, that is why i got billet ones. The cuts in the ones that i could measure are about .5mm deep do you think that they are still usefull? bored out with oversize bushes, cheers,Bob


* Rods.JPG (442.59 KB, 1952x1418 - viewed 22 times.)

* small ends.JPG (193.54 KB, 1664x872 - viewed 28 times.)

* small ends with bush.JPG (227.59 KB, 1741x1000 - viewed 30 times.)
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A10.G.Flash(cafe racer)Honda 250 vtr. Yamaha Virago XV920.

War! what is it good for?Absolutely nothing, Edwin Star.
MG
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« Reply #16 on: 02.12. 2011 10:10 »

Hmm, the hacksaw thing seems to be quite common. BA****DS!

0.5mm deep grooves means loosing 1+mm of material in diameter on the small eye, and they are not particularly substantial, so there is an inherent risk of failure involved. If you intend to be going anywhere faster than on a pushbike (your avatar pic indicates so  smile), I'd rather replace them.
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1955 A7 Shooting Star
1956 A10 Golden Flash
1961 Matchless G12 CSR

"Upon seeing the shadow of a pigeon, one must resist the urge to look up." (Confucius)

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chilblayth
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« Reply #17 on: 13.12. 2011 01:21 »

re oil hole in l/h rod ,   i remember reading in a very old publication it was to supply extra oil to the (i think) bore on that side as there had been some incidents of excessive wear on that side  neutral   this would have been back in early seventies , i think it was a copy of   `the motor cycle` 
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