*nick*
Melbourne, Australia
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« on: 14.08. 2011 11:50 » |
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howdy all,
I'm looking for a WM3 18" 40 spoke shouldered alloy rim, undrilled would be nice but otherwise drilled at least suit a spooled or small hub.
please PM me for my email address or phone number.
I'm based in Melbourne Australia, I'm 23 and I'm building a 1952 BSA B33.
I'm also happy to chat or share information on fettling the pre-unit B series singles, I'm new to the game.
-nick
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muskrat
Forum Oracle
Karma: 25
Posts: 1880
Lake Conjola NSW Oz
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« Reply #1 on: 14.08. 2011 22:13 » |
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G'day Nick,
that's what I have on the back of the cafe. just be careful if you drill yourself as the holes have to be right. The thickness of the rim will make the spokes bend if their not lined up right. "DON'T ASK" bugga.
Cheers
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Only young once, immature forever. Now how can I make this go faster. '51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10, '71 A65 Lightning (gone to god) '76 XT500, '83 CB1100F, next project a '64 A65.  |
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*nick*
Melbourne, Australia
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« Reply #2 on: 15.08. 2011 12:11 » |
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cheers Musk, I assumed as much so ideally would like to go for a new Morad (or similar) rim but, alas, the budget wont quite allow.
I was lucky enough to get a dead straight WM2 18" Akront laced to a Goldstar hub and 8" brake with new shoes, brake cams, linings, spokes, skimmed etc for peanuts but finding a rim for the rear QG hub that's not a big dollar NOS item or drilled for a huge hub is taking some time.
Nick
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Rocket Racer
A-Clairvoyant
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A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #3 on: 11.09. 2011 01:59 » |
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howdy all,
I'm looking for a WM3 18" 40 spoke shouldered alloy rim, undrilled would be nice but otherwise drilled at least suit a spooled or small hub.
please PM me for my email address or phone number.
I'm based in Melbourne Australia, I'm 23 and I'm building a 1952 BSA B33.
I'm also happy to chat or share information on fettling the pre-unit B series singles, I'm new to the game.
-nick
Nick, why an 18", a '52 B33 would have a 19" as standard. The catch is 18's give away ground clearance which there isnt a lot of on a plunger B series I'm not being critical, my A10 is on 16" rims! my '51 B33 though is on correct 19's. bizarrely I found central wheel component in the UK very competitive and helpful when sourcing rims email@central-wheel.co.ukI had 20 rims made to my specifications (2.5"x16) a few years back through them (Morad aka Akront) and was very pleased. My local wheel builder did my drilling for me. pics please cheers Tim |
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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Rocket Racer
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A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #4 on: 11.09. 2011 02:14 » |
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Nick, If your bike is a solo plunger and you like going round corners I think you may regret 18's I would think they may be fine for a swing arm model particularly one with narrow pegs and rear set pegs, but my stock B33 roadster grinds the muffler way to easily and losing 1/2" of ground clearance wouldnt be on my list of good ideas -Unless you're fitting a side car! Tim ps I've had my B33 since I was at uni and I still own it 25+ years later  . a brilliant bike. Leave the motor nice and stock and it'll be bullet proof. |
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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terryk
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Townsville Queensland Australia
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« Reply #5 on: 11.09. 2011 10:23 » |
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Great B33 Tim. I love B33 models too I have a 1948 and a 1949 which I'm keeping. Regretfully I just sold a 1950 model to finance my daughter's wedding things we do for our kids.
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1951 A10 plunger, 1958 A10 super rocket, 1948 A7 longstroke, 1951 A7 plunger, 1940s M21, WDM20, 1948 B33, 1949 b31 |
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*nick*
Melbourne, Australia
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« Reply #6 on: 12.09. 2011 16:03 » |
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my B33 came to me as a scrappy miss-match of bits, the bike i'm building from the boxes of parts and spares i've amassed is an ode to the very early 1950's and late 40's American Desert Sleds, I know a lot of people would turn their nose at me doing this but it's my bike and no modifications will be irreversible. these American Built Specials we more or less stock bikes with the lights removed, smaller guards and knobbly tyres, many of these bikes would have been built and ridden by the same person, quite an admiral feat in my opinion and completely not the norm in modern competitive MC racing. In that early few years of the Catalina GP most bikes would have used the original 19" wheels i'd imagine but since now tyre availability & sizes have changed PLUS as stated above i picked up a good WM2 18" front rim laced to an 8" SLS, i plan to use an 18" flanged rim on the rear with a pair of some large trials type/flattacker tyres to bring the wheel sizes back to roughly standard so as the geometry and ground clearance is not effected. i figure the larger tyres might even aid in offering a touch more cushioning for the buttocks when bashing through pot holes, not to mention the smaller rims and shorter spokes should be a tad more robust. I dont plan on setting any land speed records but the bike will be used on and off (unsealed roads) road.
I still have an original pair of pre-unit B series wheels in very good condition, what are your thoughts? which sizes should i go with? i can always unlace the front 18" with the 8" hub and get a set of flanged 19" rims.
ps: I have a strengthened ridgid frame and an untouched plunger frame.
-Nick
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Rocket Racer
A-Clairvoyant
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A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #7 on: 14.09. 2011 12:10 » |
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The nice thing about narrow 19" tyres is they are brilliant on loose metal roads. Speedway bikes historicaly ran on 19's, good gyroscopic action without going to a 20/21" front. My stock b33 can happily run at 60mph + on loose metal roads  I can imagine an 18 on the back with a good trials tyre will keep a similar rear ride height but suggest a narrow front on an 18 is going to loose you ground clearance that plunger beesa's were always short of. If you check out my race bike you'll see I'm not averse to special's and like to retain period authenticity. My A10 runs a mudguard off a royal star that someone had chopped long ago. I had the back seamed and its an authentic bsa guard that suits the bike... and rather than modifying std fork sliders, we made copies with a leading axle -so no bsa parts harmed in the exercise. I do love the look of the '54/55 BSA daytona racers, and built my A10 accordingly. Your bike doesnt need to be finished to post us a pic...bsa's appreciated here  |
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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Rocket Racer
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A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #8 on: 14.09. 2011 12:13 » |
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Great B33 Tim. I love B33 models too I have a 1948 and a 1949 which I'm keeping. Regretfully I just sold a 1950 model to finance my daughter's wedding things we do for our kids.
great bikes and underated. Mines in the process of acquiring a period Australian sidecar chassis with a watsonian avon body... 2 wheels good, 3 wheels better!  |
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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*nick*
Melbourne, Australia
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« Reply #9 on: 14.09. 2011 14:00 » |
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tombeau
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« Reply #10 on: 14.09. 2011 20:09 » |
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That rigid A7 in the final picture....hmmmm! |
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Rocket Racer
A-Clairvoyant
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A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #11 on: 17.09. 2011 06:17 » |
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The daytona rigid A7ss bikes were certainly my inspiration for my sidecar! such a shame they were never production models.
The rigid duplex goldie frame is so much lighter than the swing arm type, makes the bikes nice and compact.
keep us posted with build pictures!
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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*nick*
Melbourne, Australia
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« Reply #12 on: 18.09. 2011 08:23 » |
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the chair looks great! is that frame a real or replica factory B32/B34 Goldstar dirt track ridgid? you might dig on this factory 1955 Triumph T100R Dirt Tracker   *click for bigger scans*
 
 -Nick |
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