petrol taps

[old PJ]

Hi all i am going to replace my petrol taps with the new lever types as the old ones look bad i have put new corks on them over the years but they still leak so has anybody put the new chrome lever type on and do they last a long time and work well after some years .

Old PJ    

[a10gf]

  Was just going to ask about taps, have had lots'a trouble with cork, even brand new ones went bad quite immediately 

[Beezageezauk]

Yeah....I know the problem. 

I even had mine chrome plated so they looked good when the bike was being restored.  When I got it on the road and found that they were both leaking after two sets of corks I replaced them with lever type.  Problem solved and 4 years down the line these are still ok.

The chrome plated ones are still in the garage, staring at me everytime I go near the workbench!!

Beezageezauk.

[LJ.]

To be honest I have not had any serious problems with my pull on cork taps... admittedly I have had to ocasionally replace the corks and this is probably because I have used them a lot. Some corks seem to have tiny bits of bark like stuff in them due to the nature of cork, this maybe where they are prone to leaking, so next time you buy some replacements, look them over carefully.

However I would like to get some brass lever types for my Army M21. Tarnished brass looks lovely with Khaki paintwork, chrome looks totally out of place.

[manosound]

The cork-sealed pull type on my bike have performed well, but, if read the history of my bike, you know it hasn't ben a long time. I like the old look and action of the pulls, but time might change my mind in favor of reliability. The bigger problem and tricky thing with my taps is that they are right angle. Therefore, getting both nipples to point straight backwards (there is no better way to say it) was a problem. I ended up putting the fiber washers between two sanding blocks and thinning them as needed to account for the differnce in threads. You might have the same problem if you want the levers to look the same on both sides of the bike.

Richard

[LJ.]

getting both nipples to point straight backwards (there is no better way to say it)

Dont worry Richard! It adds an excitement to your post! 

I think that rather than having the taps at a pleasing viewing angle, it is more important that the left one is easy to pull on when petrol has ran out and reserve is wanted quickly. (angled at about 45 degree towards the rear) How many times have you found petrol has ran out at an inconvienient moment?

The right one can then be angled in a similar way to the left one so they both look uniformed with each other. Getting the taps facing the right way is indeed a difficult task and keeping them from leaking and not so they start revolving with vibration!  I'd like to hear of others who have got on with this.

[old PJ]

The cork-sealed pull type on my bike have performed well, but, if read the history of my bike, you know it hasn't ben a long time. I like the old look and action of the pulls, but time might change my mind in favor of reliability. The bigger problem and tricky thing with my taps is that they are right angle. Therefore, getting both nipples to point straight backwards (there is no better way to say it) was a problem. I ended up putting the fiber washers between two sanding blocks and thinning them as needed to account for the differnce in threads. You might have the same problem if you want the levers to look the same on both sides of the bike.

Richard

Hi Richard i have found the washers to leak after a while but i have used PTFE tape and that helps to stop leaks and i might try it with the new taps again this time . Hope it works 

[a10gf]

Try blue loctite 243 threadlock. Seals (does not dissolve in petrol or oil) and keeps parts well together, but made to be able to unscrew with moderate force when needed. Clean well, then let it harden for an hour at least.

Good for avoiding most sorts of overtightening (to get rid of leaks, or avoiding destroying threads). Nothing will unscrew itself again, and no problem in getting stuff apart when one wants to.

Getting the taps facing the right way is indeed a difficult task and keeping them from leaking and not so they start revolving with vibration!

Have used 243 together with suitably thick fibrewashers to get the taps pointing in the right direction without stressing the washers, and then it all stay in place, sealed and secure.

Remember loctite's are no fillers, they harden only in near-airtight spaces, needs good contact beween surfaces or threads to do their job.

But all this is of no help to me when the petroltaps themselves are leaking ! I also liked the vintage looking models, but have given up, will order the others.

[Brian]

I use the lever type on all my bikes, I got sick of replacing corks and could never get them to seal properly. One small thing to watch if you go for the lever type is that you get a "on" and a "reserve" tap. The reserve tap has a copper tube going up inside the gauze filter. If you happen to have two with the tubes in them simply unscrew the gauze filter off one and cut the tube off.  On the subject of sealants I have had good success with Loctite Hydraulic sealant.  Cheers, Brian.

[bsa- bill]

Is the reserve not the one without the tube Brian 

All the best - Bill

[Brian]

Of course it is, how the hell did I get that wrong. Put it down to too much alcohol when I was young. The one with the tube is the normal one and the one without is the reserve.  Talk about make a fool of myself !!!!

[a101960]

I have used the lever taps as depicted in the top picture for about 7 years with great success. I have also used Loctite 243 on the threads and it works very well. The near side tap could do with replacing now, not because it leaks, but because it is stiff to operate. On my A10 I use the off side tap for normal running (keeping the nearside tap closed) this gives me a reserve fuel facility. So far I have never had a problem with leaking taps. What has been a problem is degradation of the fuel pipes due to U.V. exposure. They seem to crack after a few months use. I am lead to believe that the old clear pipes which apart from going hard lasted very well, are now illegal. Does anyone know if this is the case? Come to think of it, I have not seen clear fuel pipes on sale anywhere lately.

[jfligg]

Hi Guys
  I use the push and pull taps.  Every season at least twice they dry out and leak.  A real pain in the butt.  There is a guy in Canada that has made a new plunger with rubber O rings.  I am going to give them a try.  Jeff

[manosound]

About the tubes, are they really necessary, if so, is it necessary to cut one shorter? This question might be the rusult of a lot of buildng time compared to riding time. It seems to me that the tube on the normal running side would reduce the amount of fuel available from its side of the tank, while not necessarily increasing the amount available for reserve, which is held on the other side of the tank tunnel. I don't know how long the tubes are. Might they just be there to avoid sucking in debris from the bottom of the tank? In that case, there should be no need to cut one shorter. My point of reference is my 2-1/2 gallon tank as seen on my bike at:

http://www.audioworld.net/BSA/forum/index.php?topic=166.0

If I have this concept wrong, please let me know.

Richard

[Beezageezauk]

I'm with Richard on this one.  Does anybody really need a fuel tap with a reserve facility on an A7 or A10.  These models were fitted with 2 fuel taps...one on each side of the tank so that when the fuel on one side is used up, simply turn on the other tap.  This is the reserve fuel.

The difference between an A7/A10 tank and a B31/B33 tank is that the "B" series tank only has a facility for one fuel tap.  This type of fuel tank needs the type of tap with the tube which gives the reserve supply of fuel.

Beezageezauk.

[G/F DAVE]

I, run same tap both sides of tank ie; no reserve. I use n/s side tap for normal running  & o/s for reserve.On my M20.s I use a combined tap with on/reserve as both sides are connected via balance pipe at front of tank. I also use plunger taps which are ok if kept wet with fuel & not left to dry out.G/F DAVE....

[groily]

Me too - and agree 100% about keeping corks wet. Best tap I have is on another bike, and is made from an old gas valve that was lying around - brass body, needle and seat, O rings in grooves machined on the plain shank of the threaded shaft that opens and shuts it- can't go wrong really (certainly when closed) and not too obtrusively weird. Wish I had a few more of them lying around! Groily

[bsa- bill]

Not quite right Beezageezauk.
the tanks have one side that is lower than the other around the tap, this and the fact that that tap has no tube gives a reserve that might just get you to the next garage without pushing.
Is it needed ? I ashamed to say yes on a couple of occasions !!!!!

All the best - Bill

[manosound]

Bill,

On my tank, there is a lower portion towrd the rear on one side, only, but the taps do not occur that far back. Therefore, there is no tap in the lowered portion. Also, I still don't see how a tube on the opposite side of the tunnel increases the reserve, unless it is a really long tube. I think the blokes (if I may use term) at BSA who designed the tank sheet metal were not the same ones deciding where the taps should go. Do you have another explanation?

Richard

[LJ.]

a reserve that might just get you to the next garage without pushing.
Is it needed ? I ashamed to say yes redface on a couple of occasions !!!!!

Same here.... Only that on my one and only occasion I had the taps wrong way round! The A10 is a big heavy bike to push a mile, especially with a flying jacket on and being all well wraped up!