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Author Topic: mudgaurd restoration  (Read 559 times)
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holland
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« on: 20.03. 2011 21:40 »

Hello people, spent a few weeks in the evenings trying to fix my mudgaurd, it's  looks good but around the hinge it's not quite original, this was the best i could make of it.When removing all the paint and filler some earlyer weldings appear and gave me a headache,I didn't want to use filler , so i used lead/tin instead of filler, it's very easy to work with , it's the same as filler only this doesn't crack out over several years. Is there someone on the forum who has experience with this kind of work and has some tips? Got some pics from before and after,so you can see the results. gr holland


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Stu55Flash
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« Reply #1 on: 20.03. 2011 22:07 »

Holland

I would say you've done a good job already and don't need any advice! I used this technique on my front mudguard but its not as extensive a repair as yours. I just filled a few smallish rust holes. There is some good demos on youtube. I also used it fill some tank dents. Its good traditional technique but it takes a hell of allot longer than plastic filler.

Keep up the good work.

Stu
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"Keep a distance from lady "L" drivers in cars. Some are not mechanically minded, are slow to acquire road sense, an are apt to panic..." The Pitman Book of the BSA Twins.
Golden Flash Plunger 1955, Francis Barnett Falcon 67 1954, Ferguson TEA Tractor 1951. Looking for another project!
holland
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« Reply #2 on: 20.03. 2011 22:56 »

hello stu, you say you've worked this way on your tank,is it then possible to rechrome the tank ?Buy the way this is the front mudguard, it's going to be a lot evenings in the garage gr holland


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Stu55Flash
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« Reply #3 on: 21.03. 2011 00:33 »

I spent about 4 weeks filling the tank this way, but the chromer would not rechrome it, not because of the lead filler but other areas of the tank when cut back kept revealing rust pits from the centre of the metal. I did a decent job of the filling, even though I say it me self,  and it painted up well but I still wanted chrome side panels. In the end I got an Indian made tank, which is now leaking and will have to be sealed.

Stu
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"Keep a distance from lady "L" drivers in cars. Some are not mechanically minded, are slow to acquire road sense, an are apt to panic..." The Pitman Book of the BSA Twins.
Golden Flash Plunger 1955, Francis Barnett Falcon 67 1954, Ferguson TEA Tractor 1951. Looking for another project!
Two Alpha
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« Reply #4 on: 23.04. 2011 19:53 »

Nice results so far, good to hear that the lead/tin can be chromed over.

What percentage tin to lead did you use?
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LJ.
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« Reply #5 on: 24.04. 2011 11:26 »

I have only just finished repairing my plunger rear mudguard too. For the first time I have used lead free solder and have got on very well with it. I went as far as placing a strip of metal underneath to bridge over the rusted away part and using filler to smooth over afterwards. I find that Bakers soldering fluid works best.


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Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
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1940 BSA M20 500cc Girder/Rigid- In Bits!
1947 BSA M21 600cc Girder/Rigid-Green
1949 BSA A7   500cc Girder/Plunger Star Twin-Black
1953 BSA B33  500cc Teles/Plunger-Maroon
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Blue
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Red
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