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Author Topic: Home-made tools  (Read 4324 times)
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snowbeard
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« Reply #20 on: 29.05. 2008 00:53 »



for removing the rear wheel bearing, I think this was to hold the bearing to remove it from the spindle/spacer

and the end of the bar is ground to use to pound on just the outer race thru the hub



just about everything in my toolkit is homemade so far...
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beezalex
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« Reply #21 on: 10.06. 2008 21:19 »


Huh
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manosound
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« Reply #22 on: 20.08. 2008 06:47 »

Well, I never found my lost pushrod comb (mentioned under "Spending Money" in chat). Again, being too impatient and too cheap (especially when I know there is one lying around here), I made my own by copying a photo from eBay, pasting it to AutoCad (drafting program), scaling it using the known dimension between rockerbox studs, printing it, gluing it to a piece of sheet metal and cutting it out on my band saw. After a small amount of filing, it worked and here it is.

Richard


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tombeau
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« Reply #23 on: 20.08. 2008 09:21 »

I've got long,skinny fingers. After spending about 10 minutes faffing about with the comb I discovered I didnt need it.
I have a fork puller upper made from an old top nut and some threaded rod and nuts.
I've also got a fork seal holder remover like Beezalex's. A friend knocked it up whilst watching me fail to remove one with my usual trick of using a big jubilee clip around a bit of old inner tube and a pair of stilsens.

Cheers,
Tombeau
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fido
Zala County, Hungary
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« Reply #24 on: 20.08. 2008 13:34 »


Huh

I used to have a fork seal retainer tool like that but it got lost on one of the last 2 house moves  cry
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olev
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« Reply #25 on: 10.12. 2008 13:16 »

I removed the blind camshaft bush in the drive side crankcase tonight.
The head of a 1/4" X 2 1/2" mushroom head (or cup head) bolt just fits in the bore and can be hooked under the back of the bush. lay a piece of metal with a hole over the thread, add a nut and wind her out.
It was all over before the first beer was opened.
hmmm.. that doesn't seem to make much sense. should have stopped after the first beer.
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a10gf
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« Reply #26 on: 27.08. 2009 14:47 »

To revive this topic, my latest invention (version 0.9). Anybody spots what it does ?
(spanner not used or related, size ref only)


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terryk
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« Reply #27 on: 27.08. 2009 15:34 »

I'd say its for plug hole to mark top dead center and timing before TDC
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a10gf
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« Reply #28 on: 27.08. 2009 16:14 »

Good move Richard, but the mystery didn't last for long (as expected). Yes, timing.

90 deg to piston. The bottom clip (11\32 width) on to mark TDC, 2nd clip goes on, removing 1st clip, rotating crank, bar slides freely following piston, carefully watching for 2nd clip to bottom out.
Presto 11\32 advance.

Just another twist to the piece of wire 'tool'. Took some time though to find some parts that could be used.

(Josh,  lol)
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manosound
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« Reply #29 on: 27.08. 2009 17:30 »

Erling,

Perhaps you recall my own home-made version shown at http://www.audioworld.net/BSA/forum/index.php?topic=156.msg5969#msg5969

Your's seems a bit less tedious in the usage but a bit more complicated in the fabrication.

Richard L.
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Desburnett
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« Reply #30 on: 28.08. 2009 00:21 »

Just looking through some old posts and read the technique of removing the blind camshaft bush using a modified bolt arrangement.
The trick way to remove blind bushes is to obtain a dowel / shaft close to the internal diameter (smaller)of the bush, fill the bush with heavy duty grease then insert the dowel into the bush and strike the end with a hammer.
The dowel acts hydraulicly on the grease which forces the bush out of its blind cavity.
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manosound
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« Reply #31 on: 03.10. 2009 00:55 »

Borrowing a page from LJ's book, I bodged together (his wasn't bodged) this pump for sucking oil out of the tank. The piston is an old scrap from someone trying to turn a bed knob, or something, on the wood lathe in the shop attached to my office. I turned an electric hand drill into a lathe of my own to cut the groove for the o-ring. I think, all together, parts around $10, plus some junk in the garage. It worked well, except when I stuffed a stiff wire up the tube (as shown). I'm going to try lashing the stiff wire to the outside of the tube.

Hope this isn't too boring.

Richard L.

Edit: Oh, no! Sloppy work area showing. I am devastated.


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manosound
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« Reply #32 on: 12.06. 2010 19:55 »

This is cool, so I took the liberty of copying some of MikeN's text plus the picture of the lever tool here at Home-Made Tools. I trust this is not a policy breach.

From: MikeN

"Ive been running a Tony hayward belt drive kit on  my "A" for the last 5 years....I use the nice SRM crankshaft nut that they sell ( I might have had to modify it a bit on a lathe, I cant remember now). I also made up a long lever type tool that I bandsawed from a bit of 1/4" alloy plate about 450mm long. I unscrewed the belt retaining flange from the crankshaft pulley and screwed my lever on in its place. By pulling on this lever and the ring spanner that fits the SRM nut and making a sort of grrrnnnfff noise I was able to do it up extremely tight with no risk of anything slipping or getting damaged.bI used Loctite thread locker for the nut."

"Here is a pic of the tool I made for tightening up the crankshaft nut. I remove the screwed-on flange from the pulley and bolt on the lever/tool. The small puller is for removing my dynamo pulley. The larger puller is for extracting the crankshaft pulley."


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MikeN
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« Reply #33 on: 14.06. 2010 21:29 »

Heres another tool I made to remove the fork seal holders. When I made my first one, the tommy bar handle was too feeble and bent when I tried to undo the extremely tight chrome holders.So i made this stronger one which did the job.

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/356/001jah.jpg


The secoond pic shows a box of tools that ive fabricated over the years.Some for bikes so long gone i cant remember what they do now. I usually give them away with a bike when I sell it.

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1096/002t.jpg

Mike
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manosound
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« Reply #34 on: 14.06. 2010 21:41 »

Wow! That's a great collection, can we just reach in and borrow what we need?

I think I am correct in noticing the steam engine in one photo. I can't name the type, but I bet Lee (coater87) could. He is a model ship enthusiast in deep (though I'm prettry sure that one is not from a boat or ship).

Richard L.
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MikeN
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« Reply #35 on: 14.06. 2010 22:40 »

Yes, Richard thats the boiler and cylinder block for a 6" to the foot scale steam tractor that im building . Its now about 90% complete now and I will start painting it shortly. When its done i hope to register it for road use.

heres another tool:
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/1240/013dq.jpg
Its a slide hammer I made for front forks. You can use it for assemling and diassembly depending which way you work the slide.  Different attatchments for different forks screw on the end.
MN
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manosound
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« Reply #36 on: 12.08. 2011 16:54 »

It's nice to carry a select pouch of tools in the toolbox, but a good tool to open and, particularly, close the toolbox seemed a burden to put in the pocket. I came up with this, no biggie, but it has been handy and out of the way (stashed at the headstock). I just wish I had wiped the bike down before taking these embarassing closeups.

Richard L.

P.S. That's not the right belt color for on the tank sticker for a '55, is it?


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iansoady
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« Reply #37 on: 12.08. 2011 18:44 »

Nice to see this thread resuscitated.

Does anyone have the dimensions for the fork oil seal holder tool? Looks as though they start off with a bit of scaffold tube.
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Ian.
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Goldy
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« Reply #38 on: 12.08. 2011 21:21 »

The fork seal tool that I made is 1 7/16" ID, 1 5/8" OD and the two spigots are 1/2" wide and protrude out 5/32".
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