Rocket Racer
A's best friend
 
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A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« on: 10.11. 2009 10:05 » |
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Quietly progressing for a competition entry beg of Feb 2010 - A 1955 A10RR styled on the 1955 daytona shooting stars that were built by Roland Pike using Rigid all welded goldstar frames. My frame is a replica (BB32R) as it will be doing some hard work. But have stuck to the factory drawings and using BSA parts where ever possible to create an authentic rolling chassis. It will be a traditional sitter style. Sidecar chassis should be on in the next two weeks. Lots to do!
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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Rocket Racer
A's best friend
 
Karma: 0
Posts: 211
A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #2 on: 11.11. 2009 05:49 » |
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The Daytona bikes seem to be so poorly recognised, its good some are preserving the legacy. My own bike cannot claim any such provenance as it is a model BSA never made. Simply an interesting and pretty special I want to build and will be proud to own and race. An A10RR in the same goldie frame type as the Daytona A7's were. And of course mine is intended as a racing sidecar, so needs sidecar lugs and other amendments. However if there had been side cars at daytona, I like to think my interpretation is something the factory might have cooked up from the parts bin. My tyres are 16" Dunlop sidecar racing tyres shod on alloy 16x2.5" rims. The Daytona bikes would have had the crinkle hub QD rear wheel but I thought this was a bit fragile for the nature of side car racing which is very hard on wheels (and forks and frames and brakes and...), so have opted for the full width alloy BSA/Ariel rear hubs used on A10 from 1956. (On my previous Norton outfit, I had a Triumph front hub crack) The forks are BSA (A65) but we are making fresh sliders which will carry a leading axle (to reduce trail) and a substantial fork brace to stiffen them up. The intention is to use BSA parts where ever possible and build a machine that could have existed in the period. I will be fitting a locally made daytona style oil tank, but the bike will run a dunlop trials type saddle rather than a humped race seat. I managed to find a bobbed mudguard off a Royal Star which will go on the rear wheel which will need to be fully valanced for my passengers safety. I hope to have pictures of it evolution over coming months...
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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Rocket Racer
A's best friend
 
Karma: 0
Posts: 211
A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #3 on: 25.01. 2010 07:25 » |
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Two weeks to go, have had to borrow a motor (big thanks to Ian!) so we can focus on completing the rolling chassis. Still too many loose ends...
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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flashblack
West Devon, England
A's best friend
 
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Posts: 212
1959 golden flash
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« Reply #4 on: 27.01. 2010 23:04 » |
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Nice looking project, it has reminded me of this video of a cracking race at olivers mount in yorkshire. It`s a bit of a random choice being a triumph, but great to watch cheers, Rich http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LM3PyGvhwg&feature=related
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build it, ride it, live it!
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muskrat
Forum Oracle
   
Karma: 21
Posts: 1682
Lake Conjola NSW Oz
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« Reply #6 on: 28.01. 2010 21:05 » |
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Great clip Rich, loved the slides out of corners and the wheelie onto the finish straight. And thats a GRAND piano with a Bass. Cheers
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Only young once, immature forever. Now how can I make this go faster. '51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10, '71 A65 Lightning (gone to god) '76 XT500, '83 CB1100F, next project a '64 A65. 
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flashblack
West Devon, England
A's best friend
 
Karma: 1
Posts: 212
1959 golden flash
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« Reply #7 on: 28.01. 2010 22:20 » |
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Olivers mount is a great little circuit which is public road in parkland when not in use. What the video doesn`t show is how tight the hairpin at the end of the start straight is, and how steep the following climb is. I know this because i was on holiday up there a couple of years ago and i drove round in the wifes car, although she didn`t appreciate me trying to get into third gear going up the hill! nuff said.... Rich
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build it, ride it, live it!
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Rocket Racer
A's best friend
 
Karma: 0
Posts: 211
A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #8 on: 12.02. 2010 02:39 » |
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We got it going, plenty of minor refinement to be done, but steers and brakes well. 
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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muskrat
Forum Oracle
   
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Lake Conjola NSW Oz
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« Reply #9 on: 12.02. 2010 05:26 » |
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G'day RR, Great to see. Looks the goods. I know you'll be looking for more horses, we (racers) all do. Took me 8 years of development to get 120 MPH out of the A7 only to be beat by a A50. With a chair on the side you'd be after torque. That fork brace looks as if it would do the job. Well done, waiting for race results. Cheers
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Only young once, immature forever. Now how can I make this go faster. '51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10, '71 A65 Lightning (gone to god) '76 XT500, '83 CB1100F, next project a '64 A65. 
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a10gf
West Coast, Norway
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« Reply #10 on: 12.02. 2010 09:54 » |
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 Congrats and admiration.
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A10 GF '53, Triumph 900 Legend, Yamaha XT500 Norway
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Rocket Racer
A's best friend
 
Karma: 0
Posts: 211
A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #11 on: 12.02. 2010 23:28 » |
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Thanks guys, it certainly got a lot of attention in the pits. We only finished one race, I was conscious I had a mate's borrowed small jnl motor fitted and a thin flange barrel, but through the faster corners the rig was drifting very predictably and tracked nice and straight at slow speeds in the pits with no head shaking. I'm a happy man, best toy I've ever had! just need a super rocket for the road as a test bed for engine development...Might have to sell the B50  .
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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Rocket Racer
A's best friend
 
Karma: 0
Posts: 211
A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #12 on: 07.03. 2010 23:22 » |
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Thanks to Terry Mustchin who posted this photo of my rig online. kewl... Shows off my doubled up single sided 8" brakes well!
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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a10gf
West Coast, Norway
Forum Oracle
   
Karma: 11
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« Reply #13 on: 08.03. 2010 17:20 » |
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Great photo, great bike (and courageous riders !)
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A10 GF '53, Triumph 900 Legend, Yamaha XT500 Norway
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Rocket Racer
A's best friend
 
Karma: 0
Posts: 211
A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #14 on: 09.03. 2010 05:45 » |
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Thankyou, a nice outcome of getting the bike racing was a pit conversation that has highlighted some parts for sale including most of a '55 A10 and a pile of odds and sods including an alloy head with twin carbs (specs unknown). Just need to convince the treasurer and I may have enough to not only have parts support for my race bike but also a solo roadster in some trim, possibly as a street scrambler/flat tracker but with a decent front brake. hmmm 
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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muskrat
Forum Oracle
   
Karma: 21
Posts: 1682
Lake Conjola NSW Oz
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« Reply #15 on: 09.03. 2010 09:18 » |
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Sell your children, explain how you would save heaps as well as get bits. Get that head ! Are you going to chrome or paint the frame ? Looks like fun, not enough f's in fun. Cheers
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Only young once, immature forever. Now how can I make this go faster. '51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10, '71 A65 Lightning (gone to god) '76 XT500, '83 CB1100F, next project a '64 A65. 
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Rocket Racer
A's best friend
 
Karma: 0
Posts: 211
A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #16 on: 10.03. 2010 01:36 » |
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as rigs often take a beating (lots of twisting forces), I'm thinking a quick sand of the bare metal and a clear coat might be the answer. Easy to touch up if welding required and look a bit different to black. the twin carb head may not actually offer any performance gain, but would be ffffun! appreciate the encouragement...
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Logged
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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muskrat
Forum Oracle
   
Karma: 21
Posts: 1682
Lake Conjola NSW Oz
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« Reply #17 on: 10.03. 2010 02:54 » |
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That will look different. Can I have a dollar for every time someone asks "whenya paintin'it" Twin carbs are harder to set up but offer the possibility of altering jetting for individual cylinders. You may notice with siamese pipes one pot a little richer than the other. Induction bias is eliminated. Just trying to justify my use of twin carbs to me ! For a bit more grunt try a 1" spacer between the manifold and carb. Cheers
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Only young once, immature forever. Now how can I make this go faster. '51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10, '71 A65 Lightning (gone to god) '76 XT500, '83 CB1100F, next project a '64 A65. 
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Rocket Racer
A's best friend
 
Karma: 0
Posts: 211
A kiwi with a racing A10 rig
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« Reply #18 on: 24.06. 2010 11:04 » |
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another image from its debut, painting progressing and have got the parts for the engine. Hope to have it all back together for August. The tank photographed is a loaner, mines at the chromers, all panel beaten. Note the font brake, leading axle and fork brace, but still a BSA front end and brakes. Sadly the B50 had to be sacrificed to help fund the growing pile of A10 parts in the barn...
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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beezalex
North Carolina, USA
A-Clairvoyant
  
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Posts: 375
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« Reply #19 on: 24.06. 2010 18:38 » |
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That is really awesome, man. Congrats on getting that together.
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Alex Too many BSA's 
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