bsaketcase650
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« on: 24.08. 2009 22:41 » |
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I have just embarked on the restoration of a 1953 A7 Star Twin. Unlike my 60 A10 GF, which had the cylinder barrels and head powder coated, I would prefer to have a more traditional finish on the Star Twin. Although aesthetically pleasing, I have some reservations about the heat dissipation qualties of powder coating, particularly on iron heads which run a little hotter.
Can anyone recommend a durable paint product suitable for the job?
Regards to all,
Simon
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cus
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« Reply #1 on: 24.08. 2009 23:46 » |
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G'day Simon, I use Motorspray heat proof paint, available in spray cans. Make sure head & barrels are clean, you don't need primer, but spray lots of thin coats, not one thick coat. After the engine has heated up, goes a nice satin finish, & is easy to touch-up if it gets chipped. Hope this is of some help. Cus
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63 A10 S/R 
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manosound
Outside Chicago, IL
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« Reply #2 on: 25.08. 2009 02:53 » |
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There is a product called "Granville Cylinder Black". I bought a can of this from Leigh Classics. This can be brushed or sprayed on to bare metal or on top of existing finishes (probabaly not powder coat). I am yet to have a chance to use this on a whole cylinder, but my test patch showed that it is satin leaning more toward the flat side. If you want gloss, I don't think this is the stuff. However, If you want an antique look, this may serve well. In any case, it is cheap enough to buy a test amount.
Richard L.
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dpaddock
NC, USA
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« Reply #3 on: 25.08. 2009 04:05 » |
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Powder is definitely not a good coating for heads and barrels. There are spray and liquid heat resistant paints from e.g. Rustoleum which are perfectly suitable for these purposes. They are used to restore cooking grilles, among other purposes.
David
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David '57 Spitfire 
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Rusty nuts
West Sussex
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« Reply #4 on: 25.08. 2009 12:14 » |
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The guys who stoved my cycle parts used a high gloss polyurethane paint that has higher temp, oil, petrol resistance. Think was developed for marine use.. It produced a lovely gloss finish but does seem to chip quite easily. Will revert to good old stove enamelling for the next one.
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1949 A7 Plunger 1947 A7 Rigid Star Twin
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BSA_54A10
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« Reply #5 on: 25.08. 2009 12:46 » |
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I use "Pot Belly Black" on barrels a paint designed to be used on stoves and heaters. Works well but dose tend to rust if left standing in the rain. Bike Beesa Trevor
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Bike Beesa Trevor 
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muskrat
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Lake Conjola NSW Oz
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« Reply #6 on: 25.08. 2009 13:42 » |
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G;day all, Another vote for the motospay. The aluminium flavour works well on the head and cases as well. Cheers
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Only young once, immature forever. Now how can I make this go faster. '51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10, '71 A65 Lightning (gone to god) '76 XT500, '83 CB1100F, next project a '64 A65. 
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beezalex
North Carolina, USA
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« Reply #7 on: 25.08. 2009 14:49 » |
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Contrary to conventional wisdom, powdercoat has a miniscule impact on heat transfer. If you actually do the math, it, on average will cause a temperature rise of about 2 degrees C at 150 C as compared to bare iron. Not enough to worry about. I have two street bikes with powdercoated barrels without any issues, and I ride hard. Haven't tried to powdercoat a head yet.
OTOH, I have found any regular rattle-can spray paint to work just as well as any other, high heat or not. Never tried the "stove enamel" or such, but found the original thick enamel to flake very quickly from an NOS A50 barrel.
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Alex Too many BSA's 
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flashblack
West Devon, England
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1959 golden flash
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« Reply #8 on: 25.08. 2009 18:20 » |
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Just to add yet another option for you, i have had very good results using Hycote engine enamel in a spray can, from motorist discount centre, a nice deep gloss finish if that`s what you`re after. all the best, Richie
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build it, ride it, live it!
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bsaketcase650
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« Reply #9 on: 26.08. 2009 22:19 » |
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Thanks one and all for the tips. The Hycote finish looks very promising and I may give that a try.
Simon.
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fido
Zala County, Hungary
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« Reply #10 on: 13.10. 2010 08:51 » |
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I had wondered if stove enamelling was something that could be done at home but it looks like quite a complicated procedure involving specialist equipment. I've tried various products like those mentioned in this thread over the years but nothing has stayed on long term. I've never had the top end off my A7 but it looks like I will have to do so just to properly remove the rust and old paint. I can sand blast them myself as long as I clean them very carefully afterwards.
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BSA_54A10
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« Reply #11 on: 14.10. 2010 15:59 » |
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Fido. Boil them in a 20% caustic soda solution. Wash in boiling water Wash in cold water with a bit of vinegar in it Rinse off in boiling water. No need to blast with iron barrels. Paint asap after treatment as it will rust before your eyes
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Bike Beesa Trevor 
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Billybream
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« Reply #12 on: 02.02. 2012 17:24 » |
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Just about to paint my barrel on Super Rocket, hoping for powder coat, but this is not recommended, saw thread about Hycote Engine Enamel gloss spray, this is only rated @ 140C, any advice, as not sure of operating temperature of barrel.
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1960 Super Rocket, owned since 1966
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iansoady
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« Reply #13 on: 03.02. 2012 13:12 » |
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Fido. Boil them in a 20% caustic soda solution. Wash in boiling water Wash in cold water with a bit of vinegar in it Rinse off in boiling water. No need to blast with iron barrels. Paint asap after treatment as it will rust before your eyes
I did this to my head which was caked in burnt-on oil and it came up a treat. It is pretty scary stuff though and the fumes nearly knocked me out. You need to treat it with respect. But of course don't try it with alloy or it will just dissolve as you watch.
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Ian. 1962 Golden Flash (arrived) 1955 Velo Viper/Venom (departed) 2004 Triumph Tiger 955i (staying) 
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t20racerman
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« Reply #14 on: 15.02. 2012 21:47 » |
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Just about to paint my barrel on Super Rocket, hoping for powder coat, but this is not recommended, saw thread about Hycote Engine Enamel gloss spray, this is only rated @ 140C, any advice, as not sure of operating temperature of barrel.
Powder coating is fine - I've always had power coated barrels. It is the only finish that stays put for years, always looks good and cleans up nice too. As explained above it doesn't cause overheating either. My A10 is tuned with gas flowed head, big pistons, carb, cam etc and gets thrashed regularly and does not overheat (as far as I can tell).
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1961 A10 - somewhat modified 1980 TZ350 - lunatic Classic Race machine 1967 T20 Suzuki - heavily modified Classic Racer 1967 T20 Suzuki - pretty standard road bike Ossa 250 and yet another T20 racer in bits both being built up
"If I had all the money back that I've spent on motorcycles... I'd spend it all on motorcycles!"
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